Make your own for under $10 and see for yourself — a super-simple project a teenager or handyperson can complete in 15 minutes.
Also see Going Outside the Litter Box? on this site
This one is larger and better for big or multi-cats
The sidewall heights of typical boxes are too shallow for many cats.
1. Many kitties kick litter out of the box when they cover their deposits.
2. Some older or arthritic kitties don't always aim their streams down past the top lip of a shallow box.
3. You don't have to bend all the way to the floor to lift it.
4. This box is nearly impossible for even a 20-pound cat to tip over. Most shallow boxes flip easily with weight on the edge and even more so when using a lightweight load of litter.
5. Most boxes are too small.
It's an open secret among animal workers that a great many pet toys and products are made to appeal to people rather than the pet. I find this true of conventional litter pans.
"So why not just use a covered litter box from the store?"
Good question, easy to answer.
Covered boxes cause many "going outside the box" problems. And it's easy to understand why. If you were kitty, you might avoid it also, unless your nose was dead or clogged.
Here's why.
It's quick, easy, and inexpensive
This shows a flexible plastic storage box from a WalMart store. It holds 18 gallons (68 liters) according to the label. A man's sneaker is resting on the lid for a size comparison. You won't need the lid. This is suitable for a medium to small cat. Or several kittens.
But even better is this 30 gallon size.
If you have a large cat or several cats, the 30 gallon one is the better choice. It's not that much bigger than the smaller one, but enough to make a big difference.
The box is really rectangular. (The photo makes it look like a trapezoid.) For older or heavier cats, you want to make an opening that is about 7 inches (18 cm) wide maximum. Cut a piece of paper 7 inches (18 cm) wide and tape it to the side of the box, centered, as shown here. This will be your template for marking the cuts, for cutting a wide slot out of the side of the box.
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The best way to cut the opening in the box is with a hot soldering gun. This one has a flat tip for cutting plastic, but any soldering gun tip will work fine. Cutting by melting the plastic assures you that the plastic won't develop any cracks along the cut, which can happen when sawing.
However, a saber saw (handheld jigsaw) or mini-hacksaw will work if you cut slowly with a fine-toothed blade. These boxes are made to be tough, but brace the plastic so that it doesn't shake back and forth as you cut.
If a crack occurs when you saw, you can repair it by covering it with a piece of clear package plastic wrapping tape on both sides. On the first box I ever made, I used a saber saw. It cracked so I taped it...and used for several years. It held up fine to washing and bleaching.
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"But isn't this rather high for a young kitten to climb or jump into?"
Yes. If you have kittens, make a different slot, such as the one shown here.
They can walk in easily yet very little litter will be thrown outside the box. If mother is also using the box, the wider taper allows her easy entry also.
If your all your cats are slender, make the doorway narrower than 7 inches. Vary the opening for your own family members.
Here is the 30 gallon box that I now use, except for foster kittens.
I have 2 boxes for 5 kitties. It gives them plenty of room to move around and plenty of "tail wiggle" room.
The box is 31 inches wide, 17 inches tall.
The opening is 5 inches wide, and 5 1/2 inches from the floor.
Note the black cookie cooling rack and the white disposable incontinent pad.
The rack helps remove litter from between the toes when they exit, so less tracks into the room. An "astroturf" doormat works even better.
I use the incontinent pad and rack because one of my kitties is elderly, diabetic, and has neuropathy plus arthritis, and he doesn't always fully get his rear end into into the box and turned around when urinating. He tries, so this makes any mishaps easy to remedy: I just replace the pad and rinse the rack.
Here's the other 30 gallon box. Note how the opening is wider and closer to the floor. This allowed my two kittens easier entry when they were little. The disadvantage of the lower opening is that more litter is thrown out. But with the pad to easily pick it up and dump it back in, it's quick and easy.
I scoop these two boxes morning and evening.
Remember to place your litter box away from kitty's food and water. Kitties don't like having their toilet adjacent to their food any more than you do.
Place your litterbox on the same floor of the house that kitty spends most of his time, especially if the kitty is older. Climbing stairs isn't as easy when you're old.
If you have KITTENS — don't use clay clumping litters until they are older. You already know that. Best not to use sticky, greasy, clay clumping litter anyway, when you have a much better clumping choice, and one much less expensive, even when you change it all every week.
Regardless of what kind of litter or litter box you use, check out the
NEAR-PERFECT LITTER
This is not a sales pitch; I don't sell litter or have any financial stake in this whatsoever, other than my own wallet. I'm just passing on what I discovered.
This discovery is a dream come true. It has no real negatives, except that if you live in a huge city it may not be easy for you to obtain unless you take a Saturday drive "in the country."
Costs about half of what conventional clumping litters cost and compares HIGHLY to the dollar-a-pound stuff.
click here to learn all about NEAR-PERFECT LITTER
James D. Richardson
-Volunteer
of the Year Award 2006
Chautauqua County Humane Society
-Supporting
member since 1999
Cornell Feline Health Center
Please come back soon.
Additional content and useful info & links will be added every two
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copyright 2006 james d.richardson
CATS ADORED
5214 Thumb Road, Dewittville, NY 14728
(716)-386-3492
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